Tozi Grand Cafe review: This impeccable Italian eaterie will be your new Battersea go-to

Sometimes, you bite into a morsel so delicately delicious, you know you’ll be thinking about it for at least three months after. 

And sometimes, you take a sip and know the drink will be on your mind every time you order a rather less mind-blowing iteration of the same cocktail. 

Both of these instances happened to us on our first visit to Tozi Grand Cafe, the stylish, new Italian eaterie which opened just last month in the surroundings of the just as stylish and new Battersea Power Station development.

The restaurant, which you’ll find directly opposite the iconic landmark, is actually the third Tozi restaurant (and the second in the capital), and its Venetian-inspired plates mean it’s going to immediately take pride of place as your gastronomic go-to in London’s latest must-visit locale. 

We say “our first visit,” of course, because we know we’ll be back to satisfy the cravings those flavours have since left in their wake. 

But what caused such a stir? 

The first culprit: crispy sage and salted anchovies. An umami-rich antipasti dish of sage leaves, wrapped around salty anchovies and then fried, tempura-style, these little bites provide savoury, salty crunch that may just be the best bar snack in London. Or, at least, our latest food fixation. 

Speaking of bar snacks, you must try them with one drink in particular – case number two in our list of mouthwatering memories that continue to keep us up at night ever since our Tozi jaunt. 

Namely, the olive oil negroni.  The restaurant’s special recipe takes a classic negroni and infuses it for seven days with rich olive oil – a decidedly Mediterranean mix which makes for arguably the smoothest negroni serve in London. Those that prefer a no-alcohol aperitivo need not miss out either, as the cocktail is also available alcohol-free. 

The truth is, you could leave us alone with Tozi’s olive oil negroni, and a plate or two of anchovies, and we’d be a picture of salty, savoury happiness. But, there are more decadent dishes to discover here – and with so many on the menu to choose from, you’d be doing yourself a disservice not to go for a dinner full of as many varied small plates as possible. We should know. We tried fifteen. 

The menu is rooted in Northern Italian cuisine – and as well as the crispy sage anchovies, the baked scallops with ndjua are also a rather special starter. For your Secondi course, allow us to direct your attention to the fabulous pasta – in particular, the pappardelle with braised wild boar: a rich, decadent dish.

For non-meat eaters, the buttery buffalo ricotta ravioli dusted with black truffle is a must. While you’re at it, try the celeriac tarta salada, paddling in a tasty Tuscan bean stew, an expertly considered flavour combination. 

Oh, and the confit layered chunky chips? As far as this menu is concerned, yes, chips make an absolutely sensible side to pasta. Or anything, really. These are a thing of quintessential, crispy beauty. 

To finish, you can’t go wrong with the beautifully stacked pistachio tiramisu, or the Gianduiotto tart, a thick, chocolatey tart with hazelnut flavours, topped with cream, that feels like quite possibly the naughtiest dessert one could tuck into. 

It’s not just the food which looks fabulous here. Tozi’s art-led design comes from award-winning Spanish artist, Jaime Hayon, and combines a light-filled double-height space with bold primary colours, sculptures, and striking tapestries hung from high ceilings. This is not your typical trattoria.

It’s very fitting: the restaurant is part of the design hotel, art’otel London Battersea Power Station, which also boasts interiors designed by Hayon. From good looks to even better Italian dishes, Tozi’s latest outpost isn’t just about to become your Battersea go-to: it’s truly a feast for all the senses. 

The details

Location: 3A Electric Boulevard, Nine Elms, London SW11 8BJ
Book your table at tozigrandcafe.co.uk