Epicurus Camden review: a daring middle eastern twist on American diner favourites

Familiar American comfort food gets a middle East interpretation at Epicurus, a stylish new eatery that’s opening in Camden’s bustling Stables Market. Part of the site’s North Yard expansion, the restaurant is the brainchild of Shiri Kraus and Amir Batito, who created waves with The Black Cow, a similarly themed steak house down the road in Camden Lock.

This new venture ostensibly offers the traditional – burgers, shakes and ribs – but puts them through a uniquely Turkish et al filter. The result is a fun, fresh menu that works equally well for lunch as dinner.

Go with people you know. There’s a lot of sharing platters and communal scoffing involved.

The restaurant has a contemporary, casual vibe, with exposed brickwork and an airy interior. There’s seating available outside, ideal for people watching, and in (45 covers a piece). 

This new venture ostensibly offers the traditional – burgers, shakes and ribs – but puts them through a uniquely Turkish et al filter. The result is a fun, fresh new menu…

The Luxe Review dropped in to sample the menu, and already have some firm favourites. As you would expect, meat is a speciality.  But also expect cheese. Lots of cheese.

For a minimum of two people, the Meat Grill sharing platter (‘Platta’) with chips doused in dry herbs, is spectacular: beef rib cap, succulent confit pork belly, and lamb leg steak. My advice is go hard on the jalapeno and cheddar stuffed wagyu sausage, because it’s ridiculously decadent. 

There’s also a novel twist on the traditional Sloppy Joe groundbeef sandwich, here renamed the Sloppy Burek, made with crisp Burek pastry and sweet Harissa.

“Whatever we serve has to have a story, we all connect to food by stories, memories, family… ” says Kraus, as she personally introduces the dishes. “There’s a strong emotional bond for me, between people and food.”

The Epicurus Burger warrants two greasy thumbs up. The dry aged pattie is dressed with baron cheese, bacon jam and bone marrow aioli, and is divinely juicy. 

“Everybody does a burger, so we needed to think how to do it a little differently. The bone marrow aioli is very flavourful, it adds so much to the patty.”

If you want to try something different, opt for the Daktakim, a chicken shawarma pancake, with bacon jam and an indecent amount of maple syrup – “We cook and pull our chicken, then mix with Jerusalem mixed spice seasoning. I love to take regular dishes and make them more exciting” – or the savoury brioche bread Puddin’, swimming in cheese, cream and gravy. “It’s so bad for you,” says Kraus mischievously.

If you really want to get your hands sticky, order up the beef short rib rack, glazed with honey and pomegranate molasses.

The flavour combinations continually surprise, but they always seem to work.

The dessert menu is unapologetically sweet, with Yael, a sort of middle eastern S’mores featuring hand made rose ice cream, or the Messy Bamba, a chocolate salted caramel brownie snack, complete with a cherry on top, the highlights.

I suspect, however, many will gravitate to the alcoholic shakes, made with hand-stretched Dondurma Turkish ice cream.

The baklava and honey whisky shake proved a little too sugary for me, but its salep and vodka stablemate really hit the spot, erring on the right side of boozy. I slso rather fancied the banana, melon and rum offering, but that would have been just one chilled glass too many. All shakes are available sans alcohol, if you prefer.

The wine list is eclectic. My recommendation? The Norton Bodega, a rich Argentinian Malbec. Expect to get through a couple of bottles.

Highly recommended, Epicurus Camden can be found at Unit 90, Stables Market Camden, London NW1.