Kanishka by Atul Kochhar review: Is this the best Indian fine dining restaurant in London? 

I may have just found the best Indian fine dining restaurant in London – and now is the time to visit.

Now, I must admit that I don’t need an excuse to try Kanishka by Atul Kochhar, a restaurant I’ve heard is one of the finest Indian restaurants in the capital. But if I did, now would be the perfect one, as 7th to 13th October officially marks National Curry Week. 

To celebrate, Mayfair’s Kanishka is offering up a special menu, the headliner of which is the Ahuna Gosht Smoked Lamb Curry: tender slow cooked lamb shanks in a spiced coconut sauce, finished with melted ghee and served in a stone pot with a golden crust, to be shared between two – and broken open at the table, for an extra side order of theatrics. If you need such an excuse to make a trip, there’s got to be no better way to celebrate the week, which should frankly be a national holiday. 

Either way, Kanishka needs to be on your Mayfair must-visit list – National Curry Week or otherwise.

Tucked just off of Regent Street, the vibe here is upscale yet relaxed. Tastefully striking art lines the walls, while leather booth seating and a laidback ambiance provides the perfect place to settle in for night of fine Indian food.

And settle in we did, because we were tackling the restaurant’s Tasting Menu – an all-evening extravaganza which promises a parade of seven courses, each morsel more deliciously spiced than the last and a perfect way to sample the highlights of Kanishka’s impressive menu. 

We start with Nashta – which simply translates to breakfast in India – and enjoy an amuse-bouche trio of delicately spiced chickpea and yogurt canapés, which are delivered with the advice to pop in to one’s mouth whole for maximum enjoyment. We do, gladly, and can confirm its the perfect way to whet the appetite.

We could eat these all night, if it wasn’t for the next bite, Devon crab bonda – a delicious crab fritter served with chickpeas and fresh Isle of White tomatoes. It’s just the right side of spicy and a wonderful starter. The paneer which follows it is a real tikka treat, and testament to the fact that the restaurant’s vegetarian offerings are just as tempting, if not more so, than their carni-counterparts.

The chicken tikka pie here is also a highlight of the menu. Served with a spring berry chutney, it’s a perfect example of Kanishka’s ethos: traditional Northeast Indian flavours with a British twist, using premium local ingredients – and a treat for all senses. 

By the time mains arrive, we’re far from hungry – but they cannot be missed. Like a typical curry house, albeit elevated to a fine dining degree, we are served main options of a rich, classic North Delhi butter chicken in tomato sauce and pan seared turbot with fried idli in a coconut curry sauce, with a host of favourite Indian trimmings: moreish aloo and mutter, fragrant saffron rice, light and airy naan and a black daal so delicious I couldn’t stop spooning it on to my plate – no matter how full the multi-course celebration had me feeling. 

For dessert, the cardamom chai creme brûlée delivers the perfect mix of savoury spice and sweet finish. Pair it with a glass of the restaurant’s recommended mango wine for a unique dessert duo. 

They’re all bites which have stayed on my mind long since visiting the restaurant – yet, perhaps what makes Kanishka just as special is its dedication to stellar service, making this a perfect spot for a special celebration… or simply any night that requires a dose of VIP treatment. Keen attention is paid to each of our many courses, with the chef chatting to the night’s guests and even visiting us tableside to be sure that the spice level is to our liking. It absolutely is – as is everything. 

It all comes from twice Michelin starred chef by Atul Kochhar. The world-renowned Indian-born, British-based chef is said to pride himself on elevated simple cuisine with the highest quality ingredients – and it’s no better exemplified than in the symphony of signature dishes which make up the tasting menu. 

It seems there would be no way more spectacular to celebrate National Curry Week than here, at arguably London’s best fine dining Indian restaurant – but, if you can’t make it in time don’t worry, as the restaurant will also soon celebrate Divali in deliciously decadent style, as well as celebrating Chef Atul Kocchar’s 30th anniversary in Mayfair after that. 

Or, like us, you may need no special occasion at all to be tempted for a night of relaxed luxury – dining out at Kanishka is a cause to celebrate all its own.

Kanishka by Atul Kochhar, 17-19 Maddox St, London W1S 2QH, kanishkarestaurant.co.uk