Balblair Distillery enters new era: Balblair 15 Year Old, 18 Year Old and 21 Year Old whiskies reviewed

The voice of Balblair Master Distiller John MacDonald is tinged with emotion as he makes a final speech at an intimate dinner before handing over the reins to his successor.

Retiring from the whisky industry after 35 years, 18 of which have been spent helming the distillery he lives just down the road from, he recounts highlights to a privileged group of invited guests, and praised colleagues.  

“The people I’ve worked with here are first class. I’ve had six operators here with the combined experience of 200 years between them, without whose help I would have struggled with. I feel privileged,” he says.

Following MacDonald’s emotional address, he ceremoniously passes the distillery keys to his successor, David Rogerson, former Assistant Distillery Manager at Speyburn.  

The incoming Balblair Distillery Manager was inspired as a teen to pursue a career in whisky making, progressing from Marston’s Eagle Brewery in Bedfordshire, to the Speyburn Distillery in 2020. 

“I’m sure David will do a tremendous job here,” declares MacDonald.

John MacDonald has been a guiding light for Balblair. Under his expert tutelage the distillery has built an enviable global reputation, its many expressions eagerly collected and enjoyed over his tenure.

There can be no better time for The Luxe Review to visit, and taste a trio of its finest creations…

MacDonald has been a guiding light for Balblair. Under his tutelage the distillery has built an enviable global reputation…

Founded in 1790, Balblair has the distinction of being the oldest working distillery in the Northern Scottish Highlands. 

Situated near the banks of the Dornoch Firth, the distillery sits in the rugged shadow of Struie Hill. Nearby, the ancient Clach Biorach standing stone casts a shadow, as it has done for some 4,000 years.

This local landmark bears mysterious, mystical Pictish engravings, said to be an inspiration for Balblair’s packaging.

A Keeper of the Quaich, MacDonald began his career as a warehouseman at Glenmorangie Distillery, a job landed with little more than a request for employment shared over a dram, where he worked his way up to the post of Assistant Distillery Manager.

As I tour the Balblair facility, after a cocktail (or two) in the visitors centre, it’s clear that while its heritage is long and illustrious, the distillery has its eyes on tomorrow, embracing new sustainable innovations.

One recent upgrade being the installation of TVR (thermal vapour recompression) technology to improve energy efficiency. On so many levels, it seems the distillery is entering an exciting new era.

Whisky tasting notes: Balblair 15 Year Old, Balblair 18 Year Old, Balblair 21 Year Old

As you might imagine, my distillery visit concludes with a tasting, and a unique opportunity to compare three outstanding liquids: 15 Year Old Balblair, 18 Year Old Balblair and 21 Year Old Balblair.

Lined up first is a 15 Year Old Balblair. The whisky matures in ex-bourbon cask American Oak, then finished in first-fill Spanish oak, where it resides for two years.

Presented at 46 % ABV, non chill filtered with natural colour, the 15 Year Old beautifully balances character and cask influence. On the nose it’s honeyed and tropical, while on the palate notes of toffee, dark fruit and chocolate predominate. 

Next is Balblair 18 Year Old, again bottled at 46% ABV, non chill filtered and natural colour. This whisky is more perfumed on the nose than the 15 Year Old, with a more overt sherry Spanish cask influence, offering a nose full of ripe fruits and weathered leather. On the palate, raisins and stewed fruits bob to the surface, sweet and rich. 

“This 18 Year Old is my go-to,” confides John MacDonald. “It ticks all the boxes for my palate. Not too dominant, it’s beautifully balanced.”

Then there’s Balblair 21 Year Old. We’re in more serious territory here. Bottled at 46% ABV again non chill filtered, natural colour, it’s best considered a more intense cousin of the 15 year old. Matured in ex-bourbon barrels over 15 years, and then transferred to Spanish oak casks, which have been seasoned with Oloroso-style wine for 24 months.

There’s a tropical perfume on the nose, which transitions to exotic fruit on the tongue, alongside dark chocolate and almost umami, savoury notes. Read more about the creation of this remarkable whisky here.

All three featured Balblair releases are available from The Whisky Exchange. Balblair 15 Year Old is priced at £73; the 18 Year Old goes for £115, and the Balblair 21 year Old sells for £300.