Dining

Bourbon bonanza: I tasted Pappy 23 and Eagle Rare 25 whiskey at Buffalo Trace Distillery London

Buffalo Trace bourbon tasting in London

Bourbon has a new home in London, as Buffalo Trace opens its first distillery location outside of the US this week. In bustling Covent Garden, the new Buffalo Trace Distillery offers the brand’s most popular bourbons, a range of exclusive branded merchandise, and immersive whiskey tasting experiences.

Designed to delight both connoisseurs as well as the bourbon whiskey curious, these ticketed events invite visitors to learn more about the award-winning Kentucky distillery, over a selection of curated drams.

With a history that spans some 200 years, there’s certainly plenty to explore…

The new Buffalo Trace Distillery showroom offers a range of exclusive branded merchandise and immersive tasting experiences…

Taste of the Trace (priced at £19.99 a ticket) is a guided tasting that throws a spotlight on the distillery’s core line up – Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Sazerac Rye and Bourbon Cream, and sweetens the deal with a delicious Buffalo and ginger ale cocktail.

Tradition & Change: Crafting the Most Awarded American Whiskey (£34.99) is a more intimate experience, and includes a more eclectic selection, including White Dog Mash, Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Eagle Rare 10 Year Old, and E.H. Taylor Small Batch. Cocktail lovers can also enjoy a Buffalo Trace Old Fashioned.

The Luxe Review was invited to the showroom’s glitzy launch, to experience the Tradition & Change tasting, alongside some ultra rare bonus sips of Pappy Van Winkle’s Family Reserve 23 Year Old, and Eagle Rare 25 Year Old!

The serving of White Dog is probably as near to moonshine as you’ll experience today. At 62.5% ABV per cent, straight from the still, it’s never kissed a barrel and has little respect for your palate. But it’s a great ice breaker!

Buffalo Trace Bourbon, the brand’s flagship, bottled at 45% ABV, is far more agreeable. 

On the nose, this popular bourbon offers characteristic oaky notes, Christmas cake and Crème Pâtissière. On the palette, this sweetness finds perfect balance. Buffalo Trace doesn’t age statement this liquid, but lets it age to maturity, which I’m told is typically seven years.

The exception to the rule is Eagle Rare, aged-stated at 10 years. The recipe is the same as Buffalo Trace, and the alcohol content is the same, the only difference is the extra time spent in the barrel. This detention brings spice and cinnamon to the fore, but the bourbon is also more mellow in the mouth.

Rounding out our tasting trio is stablemate brand E. H. Taylor. Bottled at 50% ABV, and aged to maturity, this bourbon is more flavour-intense than its forebears, with distinct notes of pineapple and tropical fruits emerging.  

And then we’re offered two genuine rarities…

Legendary whiskey maker Pappy Van Winkle perfected the use of wheat as the second grain after corn, rather than Rye. I was lucky enough to sample Pappy 23 Year Old, a bourbon rarely sipped. That’s because by the time you open a 23 year old barrel, there’s precious little left inside; 80-90 per cent of the liquid will have evaporated. This explains why this Pappy Van Winkle comes with a premium price tag (£6,000 upwards). The 23 Year Old is the most rare of all the Pappys, which also includes 10 and 20 year old expressions. 

As the liquid evaporates, there’s even more interaction with the wood, and as a result Pappy 23 is extremely oak forward on the nose. Bottled at 46.5% ABV, it’s also dry in the mouth, an astringency caused by the resulting tannins – but with it comes intriguing complexity.  A rare, rich treat.

My final dram was even more remarkable. Introducing Eagle Rare 25…

More than 25 years ago, as part of an experimental programme, Buffalo Trace began to investigate the effects of the environment on whiskey making, stuff like light, temperature, and humidity.

The result was Warehouse P, a laboratory environment that has allowed the ageing and maturation of bourbon to be extended, without sacrificing too much to the angels. The first expression to be produced in Warehouse P is Eagle Rare 25. 

On the nose, this dram offers the aroma of cherry linctus and freshly mown lawns, with toffee, cinnamon and molasses on the palate. Sublimely smooth, it’s a gorgeous sip. At 51.5% ABV,  fewer than 200 bottles will be released. When it ships in 6-8 weeks time, it’ll come in a custom, hand-blown crystal decanter, wrapped in sterling silver wings, and parcelled in an illuminated, numbered display case. Expect Eagle Rare 25 to retail for around $10,000.  

The Buffalo Trace Distillery London is located in Covent Garden’s East Piazza. Be sure to drop and stock up.

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About Steve May

Creator of Home Cinema Choice magazine, and Editor of The Luxe Review, Steve muses and reviews for Trusted Reviews, T3, Home Cinema Choice, Games Radar, Good Housekeeping, Louder Sounds, StereoNet and Boat International. He’s also the editor of professional home cinema website Inside CI. He's on Twitter/X, Tiktok and Instagram as @SteveMay_UK