Dining

Nessa review: Soho’s most exciting new restaurant is about to become your favourite

Different dishes and fries on the table at Nessa restaurant in Soho, London

Stop the presses. Cancel your dinner plans. And put the Negroni down. I come to you with huge London news: after many nights of painstaking “research” (you’re welcome), I’ve found it – the most exciting new restaurant in Soho. Nessa is about to become your new favourite.

Led by executive chef Tom Cenci, Nessa is bold, beautiful and about to become your go-to. Nessa takes its inspiration from the pioneering English painter Vanessa Bell (try the Abstract 19 cocktail, which is inspired by her abstract art), with the menu aiming to be a modern ode to Soho’s bohemian spirit. Having experienced it first-hand, we can confirm – this is indeed inventive British dining done with flair, fire and stylish Soho swagger.

The exterior of Nessa in Soho
Nessa looks out over a lively intersection in Soho

The vibe strikes a chord here before you even order. Designed with a mid-century modern aesthetic that wouldn’t look out of place at Soho House, the space is warm, buzzy and effortlessly stylish. Think a handsome horseshoe bar, cosy banquettes overlooking Brewer Street, and a dining room that’s glamorous and relaxed. Beautiful design and soft furnishings, it’s kind of place you want to linger – which is exactly what we did.

Nessa’s interiors are stylish and Soho House-esque – and you’re not going to want to leave

We kicked things off with cheese & onion croquettes: golden, gooey bites of Montgomery’s Cheddar paired with mustard mayo. As I write this review, I still can’t stop thinking about them – strong, punchy and moreish, they’re a bar snack you’d order twice. Or three times. And to wash them down? A Boho Negroni, Nessa’s saffron-kissed twist on the classic, which set the tone for a night of playful, inventive flavours.

Cheese croquettes at Nessa
The cheese and onion croquettes are sharp, flavourful and oh-so addictive

Then came two raw starters which both hit the mark. The aged beef rump tartare, topped with confit egg and served with beef-dripping charred sourdough, was rich, silky and suitably indulgent. Alongside it, the salmon crudo with fennel, trout caviar and English muffin toast brought freshness, brightness and a briny pop from the caviar that made every bite a treat.

For mains, the chargrilled seabream was perfection: flaky, delicate fish bathed in the most buttery, peppercorn-studded sauce, lifted with brown shrimp and fine beans. Across the table, the sirloin of grass-fed Irish beef – all 300g of it – was cooked perfectly rare, flavourful and served with a bread trivet and gravy that hit the spot like no other. On the side, the spice bag – hefty potato chunks tossed with chilli and peppers – added a playful, luxe spin on the Irish takeaway classic.

Beef tartare at Nessa
The beef tartare makes for an ultra-indulgent start to proceedings

Everything here feels designed to surprise and delight – classic British ideas reimagined with confidence, wit and damn delicious culinary flare. That balance of comfort and creativity is what makes Nessa stand out in a neighbourhood where restaurants fight hard for attention.

Sirloin of beef at Nessa Soho
Pair the sirloin of grass-fed Irish beef with a modern twist on an Irish spice bag

We couldn’t leave without dessert, and Nessa’s sweet finish didn’t disappoint. The treacle sponge arrived swimming in salted caramel and custard – pure comfort, but with a glossy, grown-up edge. Alongside it, the cream tea Devon split took the familiar jam-and-cream icon and gave it a fittingly Nessa-worthy twist, layered with tea cream, strawberry jam and a buttery biscuit crumb. Both were nostalgic, playful and just fancy enough to feel like a finale.

Not all restaurants live up to the hype – but Nessa might just exceed it. With Tom Cenci at the helm, inventive British dining has never felt so fresh, fun, or downright irresistible.

Nessa, 8-14 Warwick Street, Soho, London W1B 5LT
https://www.nessasoho.com/

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