Hautes Glaces whisky review: French organic whisky maker invites Scotch lovers to drink differently

French whisky maker Hautes Glaces wants to challenge the way you think about whisky. Instead of focusing solely on the roles cask and ageing play in flavour profiles, consider equally the terroir of grains used. 

This can have just as profound an influence, it suggests.

To learn more, I met with brand ambassador Bill Shearer, at the Experimental Cocktail Club, in London’s Chinatown, to sample some of the distillery’s distinctive expressions.

Domaine des Hautes Glaces is located in the French Alps, and known for its organic single malt and rye whiskies…

Whisky bio Hautes Glaces : Terroir et durabilité

Domaine des Hautes Glaces is located in the French Alps, and is known for its organic single malt and rye whiskies. The unique climate and soil of the location impart distinct characteristics to the grains, which are reflected in the final product.

Domaine des Hautes Glaces, part of the Rémy Cointreau Group, is also heavily committed to sustainability and organic farming. Founded in 2009 by Frédéric Revol, it’s widely recognised as the oldest organic whisky distillery in the world.

The distillery uses traditional methods, including direct-fired copper pot stills, which contribute to the unique flavour profile of its whiskies.

As befits this artisan approach, the distillery uses locally grown grains to craft its whiskies. Each is a showcase for the distinctness of the region – and its approach is attracting a whole new generation of drinkers.

“It’s not so much whisky drinkers as environmentally conscious consumers that we find,” says Shearer. “Because everything we do is very renewable and sustainable, people want to try our product.”

Reflecting this ethos, the distillery’s bottles are made of unclear wild glass, which has a natural hue; the jagged depiction moulded into the bottle itself represents the view from the distillery.

“It’s the view from outside our window. If you come into our office, we’ve got a big table. Take the second chair on the right hand side, and look through the window, and this is exactly what you see.”

The stopper is made from recycled barley.

Hautes Glaces Episteme: An experiment in terroir

To drive home the difference terroir alone can make to a whisky, I sample Domaine des Hautes’s Episteme range, two experimental expressions that are identical in virtually every respect.

Both five years old, they comprise Epistémè Yellow Square and Epistémè Yellow Circle. Retailing for around £73 each, they’re made from the same 100 per cent malted rye, using an identical production processes, and matured in comparable casks.

Harvested, distilled and placed into casks in the same week, the only difference is the plot of land the rye was grown on. Can soil alone make a difference to the flavour profile of a whisky? Remarkably, it seems it can.

On the nose, one Episteme is quite vegetal, the other is sweet and smokey, which I’m told is indicative of the volcanic soil that particular rye was grown in.

Domaine des Hautes is planning more releases under its Epistémè banner, allowing founder Revol to get even more experimental. The prospect is fascinating.  

Hautes Glaces Vulson Organic Eau de Vie tasting notes

The distillery’s Eau de vie, Vulson Organic Eau de Vie, is an intriguing introduction to Domaine des Hautes Glaces.

Bottled at 43 % ABV, the liquid is crafted from around 100 different Eau de Vies aged from 3 to 7 years, variously rested in ceramic vases, stainless steel and glass.

You may have unwittingly come across Vulson before. Pre-Covid it was sold as White Rhino.

On the nose, there’s the aroma of fruit and earthy mulch. 100 per cent organic rye, while on the palate it’s spicy.

“On a blind tasting my mind would instantly go to Mezcal,” says Shearer. “It smells like Mezcal. It has a lot of funk. Local farmers drink it with soda water and a bit of celery from the garden.”

Hautes Glaces Indigene single malt whisky tasting notes

Indigene is Hautes Glaces’ core whisky expression. This single malt is made from 100 per cent organic barley, and bottled at 44 % ABV. 

A mix of local grains, including heritage barley, it’s distinguished by a long 150 hours in the fermentation tank, then wood-fire distilled.

“Heritage grains have been used and consumed in the area for over 1000 years. It’s a six-row barley, which has more viscosity in it, it’s more flavoursome,” explains Shearer.

The whisky is matured in new French Oak casks and extremely old cognac casks, the latter chosen to better showcase the grain, for between three to ten years. 

It’s a great dram. On the nose, I find floral notes of fresh grass and orchard fruits. This follows through with chocolate sprinkles and malted cereals on the palate. 

“For me it’s got a backbone of porridge and barley,” adds Shearer, “but still super grass-green on the nose.  It’s very unique. When it gets warmer it really develops for me.”  

Consider it most definitely moreish. For more about Hautes Glaces, visit Hautes Glaces here.

Hautes Glaces Indigene is priced at £58 and available from Master of Malt and The Whisky Exchange. Hautes Glaces Vulson Organic Eau de Vie sells for £47 and is available here from Master of Malt and The Whisky Exchange.